Must Try Restaurants in Meghalaya as a First Time Traveller

Meghalaya's capital city Shillong has a thriving and varied food culture that reflects the natural wealth and rich cultural legacy of the state. The restaurants in Shillong present a fascinating blend of tastes, influenced by the region’s close proximity to other north eastern states as well as the international border.  The landscape, terrain, geological factors as well as the weather play a vital role on what is reflected on the plate. 
 

As a first time traveller to Meghalaya, I had a very low expectation of the culinary experience I would get to partake in during my journey. Blame it partly on my ignorance or the lack of knowledge and the stereotypical image that we harbour  of our North-Eastern states.

But, I was pleasantly blown away by the choice and quality of food on offer, from native Khasi local delicacies to crowd favourite trendy foreign cuisine and impressive street food. There is something to satiate every palate here.

During the two weeks of my travels, I visited and ate at numerous restaurants, road side stalls and vendors. In some places I wolfed down the entire plate and in others I felt the acute need for something else.  Here are a few places that left quite an impression on me and that one should definitely try on their visit to Meghalaya. 

Trattoria Restaurant, Shillong

The name Trattoria is synonymous with a small lunch room selling cheap local food and that is exactly what this place delivers. It is a compact, neat and tidy joint serving mainly Khasi food which can be taken as a platter with sides and add ons as per your individual choice. Located centrally in the Police Bazaar area, just off the main road on a side street, it is hard to miss this spot if not for its large eye-catching logo. The menu of this place is pretty straightforward and is plastered on the wall with its corresponding images, making the selection process easier for novice travellers like me. 

The one dish to go for here is the Jadoh (rice cooked in pork lard and blood) with an assortment of various meat, vegetables and chutney. 

Must Try : Jadoh with Doh Shain (pork meatballs) and Tungtap (fermented dry  fish chutney)

You and I Arts Cafe, Shillong 

Located on the outskirts of Shillong in the scenic Golf Link area, this cafe is a must visit for any traveller who wants to experience local Khasi delicacies in an aesthetic set up. The cafe is actually part of the Pine Air Bed and Breakfast, which in itself is a beautiful budget stay with private rooms and dorms. Go here for the ambience and the decor. The cafe is decorated like a Khasi kitchen - complete with a straw and thatch entrance and adorned with traditional black earthen utensils and clay pots, kitchen tools and an assortment of local musical instruments. Besides local dishes, they also serve a variety of flavoured teas which pairs really well with the food on offer.

Must Try:  Phan Saw served with Jhur im, Tungtap and Doh Thad Masi (a sharing platter of boiled red potatoes, fresh local herbs, fermented fish chutney and smoked beef). This is available in the vegetarian option as well.

Putharo with Doh  Sniang Neiong (steamed rice cakes with pork in black sesame seed)

Dylan’s Cafe, Shillong

One cannot visit Shillong and simply miss out on the iconic Dylan’s Cafe located in the Dhankheti Area close to Tripura Castle. The cafe pays homage to the legendary artist Bob Dylan and is named after him. The theme, the decor and every corner of the cafe is dedicated to the iconic singer and guitarist with huge wall frescoes and portraits of the legend. The window seats offer a lovely view of the pink blossom trees from the street below; which is fairly on the busy side with pedestrians and cars frequently passing by as it happens to be in the neighbourhood of many famous colleges and landmarks. The cafe is located in a green two storey building on  the upper level within a gated compound and has a decent parking space. The menu is simple and limited and comprises the usual cafe fare like sandwiches, burgers, pizza, pasta, coffee and coolers besides baked goods and cakes.

Must Try : We had the chicken Rosemary Roasted Chicken steak, a chicken pizza and Shillong Noodles with the Minty Mandarin Spritzer and The Strawberry Fizz which were quite good.  

Sunset Cafe, Shillong

A surprising addition to this list but a definite must visit is the unassuming Sunset Cafe, located in Upper Shillong across two stories facing the west. Aptly named for its perfect location to catch the evening sunset, the cafe and its premises offer wonderful vistas of the distant horizon and the setting sun. Our visit to the cafe couldn’t have been more perfectly timed as we arrived from our visit to Cherrapunji just in time for the sunset. The whole scene from the cafe grounds and its balcony felt surreal. It was like we were inside a live painting, as the sky was bathed in hues of a golden orange glow. To witness such beauty of nature is priceless, all while sipping on hot coffee and some great bakes.  

Must Try: The Vietnamese Drip coffee which was moderately priced at Rs 100 (the most expensive coffee on the menu !) with fresh Blueberry Cupcakes was heavenly.

Jiva Grill, Sohra

Located within the Jiva Resorts compound in Cherrapunji, Jiva Grill is one of the finest restaurants in the area. It is open to both inhouse guests as well as walk-ins for both lunch and dinner service. Prior reservation is not required, though the restaurant was fairly packed when we visited it. It is a slightly upscale restaurant on the pricier side, offering a multi cuisine menu, although it's mainly famous for its grills and barbeque items that are presented in a quirky yet appealing manner.  The restaurant resembles a log cabin with quaint little gazebos to dine outdoors as well. It offers magnificent views of the surrounding hills and valleys and is about a 7 km drive from the main road. 

Must Try: The Banana Leaf Grilled Fish, Charcoal Grilled Chicken, Grilled Slice Pork as well as Caramel Custard and Sizzling Brownie with Ice Cream for dessert. The best part is that you get to grill your own meat and fish with your choice of sauces and condiments at your own table ! (Think Barbeque Nation without the buffet !)

Mylliem Highway Local Stalls

For anyone who’s done a fair amount of travelling around Meghalaya and traversed back and forth on the Shillong to Shora (Cherrapunji ) highway;  they are bound to have stopped or noticed a line of dhaba style local stalls by the roadside in Mylliem with rows of cars parked up front. This particular locality is a known food halt for travellers frequenting this route which lies about 17 kms from Shillong town.  It’s quaint food stalls are always packed with people and stocked with its famous local delicacies. The most famous of Mylliem’s local cuisine is its smoked meat – either beef or pork - and its smoked meat dishes.   

Must Try: You should get a rice meal platter with the Smoked Pork (Doh Sniang Thad); its most famous offering with sides of Tungrymbai (a fermented soybean chutney), and Doh-khlieh (pork salad). We also recommend the Doh Snam (a stir fried blood sausage).  

Street Hawkers

The street hawkers of any city or state are the quintessential flavor bearers of any place. They represent the food and flavor profile of a particular region even though the dish maybe of universal appeal. The extra touch that is unique only to that region is what I discovered while eating some regular street food when in Meghalaya. Be it Aloo Muri (our version of Jhal Muri, Bhel Puri or Chatpatay) that comes in two versions - dry and wet which was nothing like I’d ever eaten before! Next was Aloo Chop, a simple mashed potato croquette but had no seasoning (spices or  chilli to the potato itself) leave for some salt, served with a dry fish chutney with Raja Mircha. 

Lal Sha or black tea with Pukhlein (steamed rice cakes) some sweet, some savory, some with a coconut jaggery filling, was ubiquitous throughout my visit there. 

While driving across the highways there were numerous fruit stalls mainly selling cut pineapple and sweet plum. I was amazed to discover that Meghalaya was so abundant in tropical fruits. 

The other thing that you will notice right away is the local people’s love for Kwai - a betel leaf with white lime smeared on it folded with an areca nut ! Similar to paan but with a slight kick and a bit too bitter for my taste.

Must Try:  Aloo Muri (wet),  Alu Chop with Raja Mircha and fish chutney, Lal Sha with sweet Pukhlein,  Kwai, local  Pineapple and  Plum.

Local Food Cooked At Home or Homestay

Lastly,  my final recommendation on must try food in Meghalaya has to be an authentic home cooked meal with a local family. I had the good fortune of being able to experience this, thanks to my friend and colleague Charity, who not only invited me to her family home but also enlightened me to the ways of their day to day lives, food habits and culture. The largest tribal group being the Khasis’ -  majority of whom are Christians; I noticed how religiously they prayed before every meal. I also became keenly aware of  the lack of alcohol consumption and the absence of a social drinking culture; which coming from a state like Sikkim, is easily and readily available at every nook and turn.  

A regular home cooked meal in a Khasi house couldn’t have been more drastically different from the one we are used to. From the lack of dal for our everyday rice meals to not using oil as the main medium of cooking, to the total lack of powdered spices in most preparations. I discerned that most families eat plenty of fresh green leafy vegetables, fermented fish and preserved food like bamboo shoots, soybean etc with a healthy dose of the ghost chilli pepper or the famed Raja Mircha !

There was a sour green leafy soup with hints of king chilly that my friend’s mother made on a number of occasions during my stay, which was my absolute favorite to eat with sticky rice.

It is also quite common for most households to have some sort of smoking racks or trays, either of wood or metal  above the fireplace where most of the cooking is done. Charity’s brother was kind enough to smoke some salt marinated pork and fresh river carp over the fire; which I was even able to take home, that he tended to very painstakingly to perfection.

Must Try: Smoked meat prepared at home

These being my personal perspective gained from my experience during my visit to Meghalaya.  I am sure to have missed out on a lot many places and dishes and will definitely be back soon for more. But I would highly recommend that if you are travelling to Shillong, then you should stay in a local homestay in Shillong and try some delicious local cuisine.

Written by Prerna S:

Prerna, a seasoned travel & hospitality expert, isn't just a writer – she's a curator of experiences. Leading OurGuest operations at The Barfung Retreat, she leverages her extensive background at Taj, Hyatt, ITC, and more. A Master's graduate in English Literature, Prerna's passion for storytelling is fueled by her childhood spent traversing India with her police officer father. Fluent in Bengali, Hindi, English, and Nepali, she fosters genuine connections across cultures. Join Prerna as she unveils the hidden gems and vibrant soul of Northeast India, one captivating story at a time.

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