After a good half day’s break yesterday, we set out for Ledar by 8:00 AM. It is 10 kms to Yak Kharka and an additional 3 to Ledar. Yak Kharka has a lot of options for stay, but it makes more sense to cover a bit more distance for tomorrow and get ourselves to Ledar.
Not too long ago, Yak Kharka and Ledar were abandoned stone shelters, completely ignored by trekkers going up to Thorang Phedi. But ever since altitude’s starting getting a bit more respect, these places are being looked to as legit stop-holds by trekkers on their way to the foot of the pass. Since then, these places have seen the opening of some very comfortable lodges and decent cafes.
The gradient is not so steep, but it may feel difficult because of the altitude. Half an hour into our day and a 120M ascent, we get to the abandoned village which is now all but ruins of what once might have been a thriving local settlement. An hour and half into our day, we reach to the top of a hill with the most magnificent view of what lies below. A meandering river snaking across the landscape, village at the foothills surrounded by lush green agricultural land spread out in various geometric patterns, the peculiar termite mound-like structures spread across the view – you can see the entire valley for kilometers ahead with Gangapurna, and Annapurna II, III, IV standing tall looking down at the same view as us. From here, we make a steep half an hour descent and lose all the height we gained and then some. Once we get all the way down, we cross over to the other side on a longish bridge swinging right above the river. Over to the other side, it’s all uphill from here. We once again have to make up for all the loss of altitude. There are a few tea stalls here just in case you need to regain some of that lost energy. An hour and a half after we begin to ascend again, we are at Yak Kharka. The trail is well marked with coloured stripes on every rock you find on the way, so there is no question of getting lost. Yak Kharka has a few options if you want to have your lunch here. If you can hold out for one more hour, you can directly reach Ledar and have lunch there after you settle into your accommodation